Countryside column
for 3rd October
Autumn
foraging can cut food bills
A friend of mine rather surprised the dinner table by discussing
squirrels. Well, not just squirrels per se, but eating them. And not just how to eat them, but the fact
that the last one he’d tried had been rather tough.
As I dare say we were revelling in some really riveting subject such
as the Great British Bakeoff at the time, his interjection went almost
unnoticed. I think I may have made some comment such as “what do you expect if
you choose to chomph on little Squirrel Nutkin?” or I might have paraphrased
Malcolm Bradbury’s novel and said, sotto voce, “eating squirrels is wrong”.
It’s a difficult one isn’t it? You don’t want to offend him. Just
because I don’t fancy squirrel, there really is not a great deal of reason why
he shouldn’t consider it a delicacy. The Romans apparently just loved a roast
dormouse – though I’d have thought there would be more fur than meat on the
little critters. In some parts locusts are highly prized though I doubt if I’ll
acquire the taste.
What I didn’t ask my dinner table companion was where he’d got his
squirrel from. Catching one could be quite tricky. Certainly Myrtle – who’s rather better
adapted for the purpose – can only chase them to the foot of a tree and stand
there barking while they make good their escape.
Perhaps it was roadkill. This seems to me to be a particularly
gruesome way of sourcing your protein. I know butchers are expensive but, even
so, making do with the leavings of crows and other scavengers does strike me as
a bit desperate. And gutting and cleaning the corpse would put me off food for
the rest of the day.
Foraging, though, seems to be the new middle-class activity. This
time of year no self-respecting cook round here would actually BUY apples or blackberries. And one narrow lane I know borders a garden
with a prolific vine. Picking grapes that overhang the footpath is one thing, but
some people’s long-arm tactics of hooking bunches from deep inside the owner’s
land seems a bit cheeky.
Personally I’ve stopped collecting wild mushrooms since that really
bad tummy-ache of a couple of years back, but many friends still do. Often,
though, they end up on the compost once photos have failed to distinguish them
from the really poisonous varieties. Oh dear, back to the supermarket.
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