Countryside Column for 12 December
Here’s
Hoping Home Hopping Isn’t Mad
I got a call to say my hop plants have arrived. I ordered them a few
weeks ago and still don’t know what variety they are. Apparently there are more
than 20 different strains available. I rather fancy Boadicea. The name has a
pleasing ancient Briton ring. Sadly, though, they turn out to be an aphid
resistant hybrid produced by Wye College just 10 years ago.
Round here I think Fuggles were more traditional. They were released in 1875 by Mr Richard Fuggle of Brenchley from a
seedling selected a few years earlier from a strain found growing wild.
In my youth a Fuggles Garage dominated the centre of the village.
Now a group of houses stands where our ancient Hillman was serviced. There’s
still a Fuggles undertaking in a town nearby, though they are funeral directors
so I have no idea if there’s any connection to the hop.
Which is a little tangential to my tale. The thing is I like
hop bines. They smell lovely and look decorative over the inglenook. But they
need replacing every year or two and, skinflint that I am, I resent paying £10
a throw. Plus I had a couple of hop poles over from a summer project and so
thought a bit of GYO (grow your own) might be in order.
It may well be that, within a few years, the only hops left
in England will be grown in back yards. In 1870 there were 77,000 acres under
cultivation. Today it’s a mere
2,400. There are still a few isolated
hop gardens round here but a large one nearby was recently grubbed up and
replanted with vines.
I’ve often wondered at the economics of the industry. Within
half a mile of me there are at least five Oast houses - big brick affairs which
would have cost a packet to build. But it was calculated that one acre of hops
could make as much as 50 acres of arable farming so the profits must have been
substantial.
And it all came about
because of a dramatic change in taste in the 17th century. Before that
the English had drunk ale - a brew made without hops. But then they acquired
the taste for the type of bitter beer brewed in Germany and the Low
Counties.
No, I wasn’t planning to take up home brewing. Though I
suppose if my bines do particularly well…